Bosnia & Herzegovina is a country in southern Europe in the Balkans. It borders just about all of Croatia to the north, east, and south, Serbia to the east, and Montenegro in the south. Once a republic of Yugoslavia, the country is fully independent but with an very unfortunate recent history. In fact, the past 100 years haven’t been so…awesome. From the assassination of Austria’s archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo which started WW1, the cross roads of fascist attacks during WW2, and the tragic scars of the Bosnian War during Yugoslavia’s breakup in the 90’s.
Bosnia certainly was not the place to be in the early to mid 90’s as war tore the nation to shreds from mass genocide to a politically segregated nation. But 20 years later, Bosnia forever remains in my memory as an amazing voyage. Here are some of the reasons why I highly recommend you add Bosnia & Herzegovina to your travel plans.
The sights
When people think of Europe, at least people I know, they think of Western European cities like London, Barcelona, Paris, Rome, etc. While I give credit to those cities, so many people miss out on even better gems that forever remain in the shadows. The Balkans (excluding Greece) is an pure example of a region that remains in the shadows. While Croatia does get a fair amount of tourism, the rest of the Balkans seems to be an adventures paradise.
Bosnia is surely one of those places that blew me away. Mostar is the most popular tourist destination in Bosnia, but I had only heard about it from browsing away at the Balkans. Mostar is home to the world famous Stari Most/ Old Bridge, a picturesque Ottoman built arch bridge connecting a town divided by a river. But aside from this town, I was blessed to see many other bridges, buildings, rivers, and mosques that were just amazing. You can have turkish style Bosnian coffee in a Cafe in Sarajevo and hike in the mountains another day. Walk old Ottoman bridges to rowing in one of the many lakes. Go riverrafting on the river and take in the sounds of the call to prayer from a mosque
Food & Drink
They don’t say that Bosnia has the best Cevapi in all of the former Yugoslavia for now reason. After eating Cevapi in every republic (except Slovenia), Bosnia does in fact have the best Cevapi, I’ve ever had. But aside from that, I’ve spend a much time in a number of bakeries picking out delicious Bureks and Zeljanicas
When you think of beer, Bosnia probably wouldn’t be the first place you think of, but the beer isn’t too bad. I’ve tried the mainstream drink Sarajevsko, brewed in yes, Sarajevo as well as Mostar. Even tried some wine made near Mostar in Hercegovina.
I’ve had my share of coffee in the few months that I had started drinking it.
Coffee
Bosnia coffee remains in my memory as one of the most delicious I’ve ever had. Bosnian coffee is very very similar to Turkish coffee, served with a džezva but prepared slightly different. And Bosnians prefer to call it Bosnian coffee, not Turkish.
The Culture
The people I met seemed to all have pride in their country and their identity. At least in the Federation, which is the only Canton I was in during my time there. The other is the Republika Srpska and a small region called Brcko in the north. The music I heard on radios everywhere sounds like much of the rest of the Balkans, especially in the former republics, but Bosnian music certainly has it’s own touch.
What I loved about Bosnia a nation is it’s diversity. The war that occurred in the 90’s was not only just about Croats, Bosnians, and Serbs controlling a region, but religion was an issue. Aside from the war though, Bosnia was always known to be a diverse nation. Walking around Sarajevo, you can see a mosque, an orthodox church, and a catholic church within a small area. You can hear ordinary church bells ringing as well as the call to prayer in one day.
The Geography
The geography of Bosnia is beautiful! Seeing the height of the mountains upon arrival was a huge surprise for me. I honestly had no idea Bosnia has big mountains. In the winter it is possible to go skiing or snowboarding. Hell, the winter olympics of 1984 took place in Sarajevo (You can walk the former bobsleigh tracks). There are many rivers where you can go whitewater rafting and lakes to go kayaking or rowing, something I did on Jablanica jezero.
The History
Bosnia was once reigned as a wealthy kingdom in the medieval times and later on was swallowed into the Austro-Hungarian empire. Sadly Bosnia saw some serious rough times since the early 1900’s. War has ravaged this country three times and while the number three may seem like such a low number, those three times put a serious hurting into the nation. The Bosnian War was the worst of it all and was like the climax in a movie. From mass genocide in Srebrenica, mortar shell attacks and sniper fire in Sarajevo, to ongoing fire and shelling in Mostar and just about every city in the country. I’ve met people with war artifacts and physical scars on their bodies. Bullet holes still riddle buildings and signs and destroyed buildings still stand. But despite the negative past, the nation has moved forward with some form of progression. Thanks to tourism especially. Despite the negative recent history, talking to locals about their personal experiences is a hell of an experience on it’s own.
It’s Cheap
One thing I love about much of the Balkans despite it’s western neighbors, is that it’s really cheap. That’s where I guess I take in appreciation in the fact that Bosnia is not the first place foreigners go. Everything is really cheap based on American standards. A decent meal costs 2-3 USD, Bosnian coffee cost me $2. A museum about $3. $1 Beer. Hostel beds under $10. I would talk about transportation, but that’s where I get to my next reason…
Hitchhiking is great
Hitchhiking became a new chapter in my world of travel in the heart of Romania and at the time, I made it happen in Slovenia and Croatia. Eventually did it in Montenegro, Kosovo, Macedonian Republic, Albania, and Greece. But Bosnia was hands down one of the best places to hitch rides. I started the hitchhiking journey right off of the ferry in Ploce, Croatia with an incredible woman who stopped with Medugorije and brought me to Mostar. I made it to Jablanica and then to Jablanica Lake with a guy who bent over backwards to help me find my Airbnb. To Konic and eventually to Sarajevo who went way out of his way to bring me to the street car into the center. In regards to the people I rode with, I take you to my next and final reason…
Kind People
It’s always hard for me to answer any questions that starts with, “So whats your favorite BLA BLA BLA?”. Romania for it’s culture. Croatia for it’s coastal towns. Slovenia for it’s green landscape, Greece because it’s Greece. You get the point. For Bosnia, the award it gets, it’s the kindest, most warm and welcoming people I have ever met. Just saying this alone makes me remember and puts a smile on my way. No matter what Bosnians have been through in the past 20 years, they have remained insanely humble and if they would, they’d probably invite you into their home. I met kind people in the hostels I stayed at but befriended most of them in the cars I got into. As I said before, few went way out of their way to take me where I needed to go. And even if they didn’t, I felt as If I knew the driver for years. Listening to traditional music, dancing and singing a long. Hell, as an American, FROM NEW YORK, i was treated even better. Oh by the way, the women are beautiful. If you are a woman reading this, sorry, I have no feedback for you on men. hahaha
All in all, these are all reason I remember dearly of why Bosnia was amazing for me. With hospitable and kind people, good Coffee, delicious food before or after a nice walk across an Ottoman bridge, good music, and a beautiful backdrop, these are all reasons why you should go. Remember, the war, it’s in the past. And although it’s a hard memory for most to forget, it has made Bosnian’s stronger and even more welcoming for you to come. Enjoy 🙂