Mauri, Mauri!! Kiribati was a country I dreamed of visiting for several years. I can’t remember what and why that was? Tabon Te Keekee’s overwater buias or the relics of war still scattered across Betio Island. All I know, is that Kiribati grew from “What the hell is Ki-ree-bah-tee?” to becoming one of my top dream countries. A major itch to go and a curiosity that grew week by week to visit these islands compromising of the Phoenix, Line, and Gilbert islands stretching across the Equatorial Pacific. I knew after some time, that Kiribati was a country of many problems, namely on the capital island of Tarawa and that personal perspective was something I just had to have for myself. It was only a matter of time before I would find myself on a one way flight from Tuvalu to the land of fair skinned people.
North Tarawa
Opposite of Funafuti’s tiny main island is Tarawa, a wide and insanely long stretch of atoll. Only this atoll has two contrasting sides, North and South Tarawa. Beginning my time in Kiribati, I had a nice 4 night layover in Tabon Te Keekee, a “resort” I long desired to stay in since I heard of Kiribati. Although I learned of places to stay across the Gilberts with bias for a fraction of the 120 a night I paid to stay, I found it to be worth my stay. Next to the resort was a small school where I was able to attend culture day rehearsals of dancing and singing. Abatao is also a really nice place to take a walk through many villages passed crooked bridge and at the end to broken bridge for one of the best swims in Tarawa atoll. You might even get lucky like me and have two little kids join you all the way until the end.
South Tarawa
Returning from Nauru, I was ready for the overwhelming experience of South Tarawa. I found a cheap Airbnb for 147 for 6 nights in the village of Teaorereke in an ocean front home beside a family. Teaorereke is far from the airport but close enough to experience Bairiki, Betio, and the unique walk across the long Nippon Causeway separating the two islands. I enjoyed walking South Tarawa as even for a crowded place, kids would still yell out I-Matang. Even on crowded Betio, walking amongst the relics of World War Two, I had kids yell out to me to take selfies or to give me fist bump. But best of all, a local came up to me and handed over a bullet from the war, sadly confiscated at the airport upon departure. Betio island has tons of remains from war but even so, they are scattered around for discovery, not placed on a map for tourism like walking around Pearl Harbor.
Even on crowded South Tarawa, you will still find culture all around you. Traditional built kiakias and buias with families eating, sleeping, or playing on their phones in them. So that means the culture is even richer on the outer islands? Absolutely. Don’t be surprised if you find people kicking back on in their buias playing games or watching movies on their phones or motorbikes buzzing up and down the main road. Other than that, you will find yourself as the only I-Matang and the center of attention for everyone, especially the kids.
Butaritari Atoll
I spent a week on Butaritari, and was the only foreigner on the entire island. Lucky for me, I happened to be on Butaritari for the 75th anniversary of the Battle of Makin (Butaritari) where the entire island came together to put on the show of a lifetime giving thanks to America for saving their ancestors. The show was touched up with an invitation into the maneapa for cultural dances by some local girls. I’ve got to say, that Kiribati cultural dancing is one of the most beautiful I’ve seen.
Harsh Realities on Tarawa
Kiribati has many problems, from overpopulation on South Tarawa and pollution. There are barely any waste disposal programs but even so, people have no idea where to put their rubbish other than, anywhere but where they walk at home. Betio is one of the most littered places I’ve seen in such a densely populated small area. Kids pee and shit all over the beach and any places where they can drop their pants. The food is delicious but found myself getting stomach sick on a handful of occasions. Dogs are violent and hostile and are most dangerous in packs. I would know so as I was actually attacked by dogs in South Tarawa. And of course, the evolution of the land that disappearing from climate change.
But beyond all that, Kiribati is an adventurers paradise, A nation full of smiling, friendly faces willing to talk to you or take you in as family. Some of the most beautiful children I have ever seen who yell “Hi”, “Mauri”, or repeat “Good, Good, Good!”, begging to take a selfie or jump in many of my photos. A place with zero tourism, and nothing but culture waiting for the right adventurer to come!
Check out my FULL Kiribati Experience on Youtube
