Why the hell am I calling this dream inception? Because I literally just finished living a dream within a dream, owning a motorcycle while traveling the world. While I am still a motorcycle owner many miles from my final destination of living before I work and leave New Zealand for good, the height of my double dream has officially become a reality.
While I watch the rough seas go by crossing the Cook Straight en route back to North Island, i reflect on this incredibly amazing time I had in the South Island. From mashing up cocktails in Picton, wild adventures along the West Coast, on top of the world in Wanaka, the end of the road in Bluff, getting lost in the Canterbury Plains, to catching sunsets in Akaroa and the Kaikoura coast. This is my journey in a single blog post.
The Marlborough Sounds
As I stated in a previous post, there was something that drew me to the sounds before I even arrived with my family. Weeks later, I found myself back off the beaten path with my bike and tent deep in the heart of the sounds with a family, slowly falling in love to the peaceful nature of the surroundings.
Whether is was the calm of the sea and backdrop of the cascading mountains, this energy drew me to call Picton home, the gateway to both South Island and the Sounds. I found my dream travel job in a hotel working as the bartender I longed to be as well as some server etiquette to understand in 5 star settings. And eventually later becoming the barista I wanted to be for starters. In these three months, I found myself so content with my living situation, I didn’t mind spending those days off simply being at home, on the Foreshore or at my spot, Le Cafe enjoying a delicious coffee.
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Golden Bay
Speaking of days off, it was time for a little venture away from home. After two months of comfort, I did long for a bit of adventure somewhere I had never been. I chose Golden Bay for two short but incredible days on my Bike with nothing but a backpack, tent, and my saddle bags filled with necessities. But why Golden Bay? Because with an upcoming trip around South Island, it made sense to make a trip out of a region that has a road one way in, and the same way out.
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Leaving the Sounds, I went over two hills passing through Nelson, over the windy road at Takaka Hill, and riding along the Golden Bay Coast with a finish at the end of the road at Wharariki Beach. Upon returning to Picton, I found myself on one of the most beautiful beaches of New Zealand near Abel Tasman National Park, Split Apple Rock beach. The day was hot enough to enjoy a nice cold swim in the sea in a region home to some of the most beautiful unspoiled beaches in the country. Fortunately, I picked the right time to go, as a few weeks later, Golden Bay got hit hard with a cyclone.
That’s what fascinates me about New Zealand the most, it’s an abstract painting…yet very much real.
The Wild Wild West Coast
With arrangements to be in Auckland in April, I left my home of Picton for the open road end of February. Cutting across through Nelson Lakes, Murchison, and Buller Gorge, I found myself in Westport enjoying some local stuff but mostly avoiding horrific rain. The west coast was by far the most challenging and adventurous point of my journey as rain swarmed in at any time despite forecasts depicting the opposite. But this didn’t stop me from exploring on two wheels.
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One of the best journeys on two wheels is the ride from Westport to Greymouth, offering insane cliffside views of jagged rocks out of the sea, small cove beaches, and a hazy misty backdrop along the way. Much of these parts didn’t even have any traffic making it seem as if I were something out of a post card.
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I made my stops at some former mining spots, Hokitika Beach and Gorge, a camp out at a historic bar, bays and beaches along the way. But what made this trip much more intense was the rain I fought several times along the way putting my patience to the test driving me through some frustration and hard times. Occasionally finding myself questioning why I am doing all of this. I couldn’t make it to the glacier at Franz Josef and Fox glaciers because of this. But despite skipping out on some things and yes even sleeping in a soaked tent, I found a whole new side to me, learning how to be during some of the worst situations, dealing with them with minimal stress and worry, and acting out in such a way to make things work in my favor. After all, I did tell myself then, “I am going to look back at these hard times, and reflect on them as a major part of the journey”. It’s crazy how right I was!
Southern Lakes
It’s without hesitation to say, the lakes of Tekapo, Pukaki, Wanaka, Hawea, and Wakatipu are just stunning and out of this world. Months before, my family and I spent a night overlooking Tekapo and simply fell in love. But that quickly was overriden by Lake Pukaki’s incredibly blue water with it’s backdrop of the nations highest mountain, Mount Cook or Aoraki. To this day it remains as one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.
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While I already had the opportunity to visit Pukaki, Tekapo and Wakatipu with my family, I did complete the missing piece of the puzzle by arriving on Wanaka via Haast Pass out of a rain storm. The initial welcome was a fiery orange color for a sunset, something I have never seen before. As always via motorcycle, the postcard perfect experience was the iconic ride on some of NZ’s best roads along Wanaka and Hawea on a clear sunny and hot day finishing off with a hike up (insanely difficult) Roy’s Peak to dominate over the surreal horizon of beige terrain with blue hue of water. And while Queenstown sadly doesn’t find itself as a favorite place of mine due to the commercialism that has overrun the place, the backdrop of the place is just something you can’t resist. Something that the entire world can’t either! I completely understand!
Fjordland and South to the End of the Road
Another grand experience I had the opportunity to enjoy was a day tour into Fjordland with my family and enjoying a cruise in the majestic Milford Sound. There are many must do’s in New Zealand, but Milford Sound is THE must do. The mountains rise high above you in such an overwhelming fashion topped with infinite waterfalls. This is all the perfect reminder that despite the complicated world we live in, mother Earth is just fucking amazing!
Months later, I find myself back but unable to recreate such beautiful memories as I did with my family, alone on two wheels, I made a new path grazing Fjordland by taking in panoramic views of the terrains differences that are only 10-20 KM apart. One minute you are on a lake between high mountains, another you are back at the sea standing on a sandy beach. That’s what fascinates me about New Zealand the most, it’s an abstract painting…yet very much real. Riding along the coast through smooth hills, farm land, the historic city of Invercargil, and some KMs more through a small slither of land surrounded by sea, I find myself at the end of the road at Sterling Point in Bluff. While the edge of New Zealand is actually 7 KM further south, the end of the road is still an overwhelming feeling of joy. Especially, if you have ridden up to Cape Reinga, the opposite end of the road. But it’s not only this, it’s knowing the fact that Antarctica just beyond the horizon of sea from where you stand!
Catlins and up the Otago Coast
Doesnt matter where you go! Every direction has something incredible to offer in New Zealand. From Invercargill heading East is the Catlin Coast offering a nice ride to endless natural attractions. Dolphin viewing at Curio Bay, waterfalls, Cathedral Caves, beautiful bays and coastal rock formations, mystical vibes you feel at the Nugget Point lighthouse, choosing to take the scenic route up Taeri Mouth Road to Edinburg’s twin city, Dunedin.
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With the steepest street in the world, a beautiful train station, endless murals, and the nearby Otago Peninsula for a nearby getaway from city noise, Dunedin is a must experience on the east coast. Up from Doon Din, is continuous coastal beauty including the Moeraki Boulders. While I thought Oamaru would be a simple pitstop for petrol, coffee, and an overnight couchsurf, the historic port is like time warping back 90 years.
Oamaru, NZ
Akaroa & The Banks Peninsula
The Canterbury Plains may be boring but are a motorcyclist heaven as they flew by me like I was riding a scooter. After visiting the Rakaia Gorge, I found myself insanely lost in a maze of flat farmland that resemble much of what central USA would be like. Roads went in every direction!! With the South Alps behind me, I was heading for the direction of the mountains opposite of that, the Banks Peninsula.
After miles and miles of flat terrain, I arrived in the complexity of hills of volcanic origin with windy roads and gorgeous overlooks along the way. But over the hill is the view of dreams, overlooking the harbor and the entire central region of the peninsula. The journey onto Akaroa continues mostly along the water providing panoramic views and angles around the bay before entering Akaroa. Because this used to be a French settlement, much of the area still keeps things French, including the street names.
If Christchurch is your next stop, I highly recommend taking the long way back via Pidgeon Bay en route to Lyttleton Harbor. The road is part gravel which is hard on my bike, but the scenic journey made this trip beyond worth it. I eventually found myself riding around another harbour before sitting in Lyttelton town, enjoying a coffee, taking it all in, and preparing for more riding.
When The Earth Shakes // Christchurch & Kaikoura Road
In 2011, New Zealand was hit by one of the most devastating and deadly earthquakes in recent history. While I didn’t actually stay in CC, I still took the time to gain perspective on how rough mother nature can be, and that I sure did. Where buildings used to stand are now empty lots. And if they do stand, they are in disrepair. The feeling of the city is not the same as the energy is overwhelming with an empty void. The same feeling I got walking around Rotterdam, only this was an earthquake not an invasion. It was truly heartbreaking and an unforgettable experience.
5 years later, New Zealand was struck by another powerful earthquake. Unlike the 2011 one, this one wasn’t so much a deadly one, but more of a historic terrain shifter. Land masses literally shifted meters up and across both above and below sea level. This was the second perspective I had gotten riding up the barely open Kaikoura Road along the coast to and passed Kaikoura town, a town which had been in isolation for over a year. Even when I rode through, the road had an opening and closing time from sunrise to sunset. Maintenance crews worked every kilometer or so riding on and off gravel road. Much of the road with holes I had to avoid. However, the ride was incredible as the sunset shined behind the Kaikoura ranges giving on a beautiful orange color across the sea, making it the perfect end to an incredible adventure..my dream within a dream.
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Coming to New Zealand in mid-September, I had the pleasure of exploring much of the the Northland, Waikato, Wanganui, Central Region, Tauranga and Coromandel coming to the conclusion that North Island has so much beauty in itself. But it’s without a doubt true to say that while North Island is beautiful, the South Island is beautiful on a whole new level. My favorite word to use is, Majestic. The beauty is just epic on a massive scale. Lake are more colorful. Mountains are far higher. Glaciers, rugged coastlines, flat farmland, to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I am just glad, I lived this incredible dream, on two wheels. My dream within a dream!
