“Tuvalu mo te Atua“
For a country that popped up on my radar in such a short time span, one year that is, I would find my self in love with a place way before I would arrive. There is only one other country where this has happened and that was in Greece. Until this day, I long desire a return to a country I spent nearly two months in. But for Tuvalu, I discovered in some time before leaving for New Zealand from Hawai’i. A time where I was barely making my way back on my feet from my achilles surgery. My original Pacific Island plan would have been: American Samoa > Samoa > Fiji > Kiribati, > Tonga. Tuvalu wasn’t even a place I heard of, like most people. But that time spent off of my feet recovering allowed me to discover unique group of low lying Polynesian islands in the Central Pacific. My curiosity was awakened!
A year goes by and with my New Zealand working holiday visa up, it was time for that long awaited trip around the Pacific on two healthy feet. In that total 7 months of working ordinary jobs in NZ, I found a plan that would set aside a budget for all of the island I wanted to visit, including Tuvalu. My travels would bring me across the main Tongan islands, sailing west, and exploring Fiji by boat and on foot. By this time, I had fully adapted to Pacific Island way of life having had the opportunity to village stay in Vava’u Tonga, and two villages in Fiji. Learning words all so sounding so similar and embracing the hearts of people across the islands. Getting off the sail, I had to prepare many onward tickets thanks to Pacific Island immigration rules to my next set of islands, Nauru, Kiribati, and finally Tuvalu.
A New Perspective: Life on an Atoll
I have flown to a small fraction of the world and forever enjoy my window seat. But arriving in Funafuti was by far the most unbelievable sight in my life. Seeing an atoll via photos is one thing, but with your own eyes is indescribable. People’s everyday lives squeezed on land no more than several hundred meters wide and 1.5 to 2 meters above sea level. With threads of king tides and cyclones.
Opening the plane door gave me the opportunity to be greeted by the hottest air I’ve felt in a very long time hence why doing the least amount of things in the open sun from 12 to about 3:30 is probably the smartest thing you can do. But it’s just surreal to be able to hear the calm water of a lagoon and a few steps away, the violent waves from the open sea. Funafuti is built up a bit more than I’ve read which isn’t a bad thing. Electricity is had with solar and water tanks provide….water. An engine on two wheels dominates the skinny road system across the island and fresh fish from the lagoon is the island supermarket.
Tuvaluan Food is Sooooo Good
Speaking of food, I’ve got to say that living a fraction of my life as a fats desiring large amounts of food all the time, I have grown accustomed to eating when it’s time to eat. In Tuvalu, I didn’t find myself eating so heavy. I mean, I’ve been fed endlessly with locals insisting I eat more and more. But the food is simple yet so damn good. While resources are limited, Tuvaluans can manage on their own pretty well not depending too much on imports. Sure rice and other things are brought in. But I never saw locals whipping open tin fish and corned beef for their meals.
The lagoon provides fresh fish like clockwork and oh god it’s so good. I’ve had black marlin fish cooked umu style. I’ve apparently eaten like a Tuvaluan, eating raw fish fresh out of the water. Plenty of tuna (baked), taro, pumpkin, breadfruit, with rice, and once a piece of sausage. They have a few Chinese restaurants but only ate once on my exhausting arrival day. A lot of food can be coconut based too, as I’ve had fresh caught fish mixed with coconut cream, curry and some rice. As for drink, can’t exactly say they have any breweries, but besides Red Horse & Fosters, Kao makes one hell of a natural alcoholic drink made from the branch of a coconut tree. Had 9 cups one night and had to cut myself off to be able to ride home. haha.
The Beauty is out of this world!
I haven’t been to any of the outer islands and will have to leave that for my return trip. But I found Vaiako town and the rest of Fongafale island to be beautiful in it’s own right. There is a charm felt one you get on two feet to walk around and take it all in. And riding around the island was one of the most incredible experience yet. A 125cc Suzuki doesn’t compare to an 800CC Suzuki in New Zealand, but for such a tiny area, it does just fine. I camped out with friends at the west end to a beautiful sunset and decent swim to riding to the near end where the islands rubbish goes.
True beauty though, lies off island and on the islands within the atoll. I couldn’t leave Tuvalu without taking a tour around the atoll knowing I wouldn’t make the outer islands on this trip. So I went to the island council, negotiated 150AUD to one of the islands, and found myself a ride. But because my drivers “though I was a good guy”, they took me into the conservation area for free. We basically toured nearly entire atoll. The water is blue, island is green, and the sand so soft. The pure definition of paradise only this is Tuvaluan paradise. Walking the jungle to visit the remaining American sites from WW2 to snorkeling off of another island. Drinking fresh coconut and taking a “gogo” bird home as a pet. And finally taking cover from the mid day sun having fresh fish for lunch in Funafala village.
Rich Culture Surrounds You
It’s not like everything is far in Funafuti, but yet culture surround you. It become you! So much that it doesn’t take much before you are sitting in someone else’s home being welcomed into the family. I loved just people watching everywhere as you seen woman riding on their mopeds in their colorful sulus and ‘fau o aliki’. Because I heard of some things going on at the Vaitupu maneapa, I made my way over to see and ended up getting invited in to join their feast. Next thing I know, I am sitting amongst them while they perform their Fatele, competing two sides to drumming, singing, and dancing. The singing and dancing is just incredible. I can go on with emotions at how happy I was to be a part of something like this.
I thought that to connect with people would have to be on foot as it gives chance for conversation. I was wrong! I rented a motorbike to ride to each end of Funafuti and at one stop for photos, I was invited over for conversation, some fish and fikei for lunch, and some Tuvaluan language lessons. I would stop to say goodbye on my last day and would be gifted some fresh sweets at the airport. In fact, another friend I made that happens to work at the airport would gift me a shell necklace to say goodbye. Funafuti is so small, that it does not take much to make friends at all. The people are mostly shy at first, but alike much of the Pacific, if you show pure kindness to the heart with a smile and wave, you will be taken in as a friend, as family. Being offered food, drink, and sweets all for your company and good spirits. The most inviting, kind, and warmest people I’ve met is on this little island. I can’t imagine the reception of the outer islands.
You Won’t Want to Leave
When you get a taste of something that you end up liking, but don’t get the chance to have more of it, the craving end up being high as hell. My craving to experience more of Tuvalu is exactly like that, I simply wish I had more time and budget to stay longer. Even if I had stayed on Funafuti one week longer, would have sufficed. But had I had extra time and budget, I would have taken that ferry and ventured to the outer islands to experience the true Tuvalu. Hell, I would have applied for a visa extension and stayed in an island or two. Maybe Vaitupu or Nanumea, who knows. All I know is that my experience in Tuvalu was cut way too short. After all this was my dream country and all that I desired to experienced turned out a million times more incredible than I anticipated. I can’t wait to return to fully give the country the true visit it deserves. Fetaui Tuvalu! Until next time <3
