Hale a ka lā, House of the Sun, is one of the most majestic, beautiful, and spiritually powerful places I have ever been to in my world travels, and I am not even talking about that unbeleivable ascent into the clouds on the way up. Visiting Haleakala National Park comes with a bit of homework to enjoy everything it has to offer including having to get permits, which I will break down in this blog. So first things first:
How long does it take to drive up? (Approximate Times):
From Kahului: 1 hour
From Lahaina: 1 hour & 30 minutes
From Hana: 3 hours
KEEP IN MIND: There are two parts of Haleakala National Park.
Kipahulu District: Makai (Ocean) side closer to Maui Town.
Haleakala Crater & Summit, which is a different drive thank Kipahulu. Map out accordingly.
Cost: $30 for a three day pass in the entire National Park (including Kipahulu)
Pack Food & Essentials: There are no shops or food spots up Haleakala. Come prepared. (Water fountains accessible at the Visitors Centers & Hosmer Grove Campground)
Camping? – There are several sites to camp within the crater but one in particular that is accessible by road. Hosmer Grover Campground is a popular campsite just after the park entrance and for $10 a night, you have access to the entire park including sunrise with no reservation required.
KEEP IN MIND: Sites book out fast and super far in advance. I booked my site two months in advance and actually booked my trip around these difficult to snag dates. Difficult but not impossible yet you may have to be really flexible with your time. Once this is sorted, the adventure is WORTH IT
Also keep in mind: Itʻs COLD AS HELL up here dropping down to 40F at night. Have proper gear and warm clothing.
The Ascent up with take your breath away.
Weather is quite unpredictible at this altitude, but high chances the altitude itself will dominate over this weather. Meaning, you have a high chance of driving up and through the clouds even on a seemingly cloudy day. By far one of the most breathtaking experiences Iʻve ever had and even cried at the sight.
Hosmer Grove Campground
The campground isnʻt that big and is enough space to comfortably pitch an tent and enjoy some of the tables set up on the lawn. Parking is adjacent to the lawn and there is a loop trail into the nearby forest. The campground is shortly after the park entrance and once you’re settled in, you have full access to the park including sunrise at no additional cost nor reservation needed.
Cost: $10 per night , reservation needed in advance.
My Lynx One Person tent that has been good to me for SIX YEARS of Travel!!!
Catching Sunset
After embracing the gorgeous ascent up, you will reach the visitors center just below Red Hill (the summit). When I arrived (around 5:45pm), access to Red Hill was closed due to full parking, and just barely made a parking spot at the area below. This place gets full so finding a decent spot to watch sunset at the west end of the Visitors center should be priority. Once settled, take it all in!!!
Sunrise Permits
Yes, you will need to reserve a spot to hit the summit and watch the most incredible sunrise EVER. The summit gets thousands of visitors per day and to have an unrestricted amount of guests at one time would be chaos for the summit. To book, visit: https://www.recreation.gov/ticket/facility/253731.
Tickets are made available everyday at 7am and usually go fast (like in 15 minutes), so itʻs a hit or miss ordeal.
Catching Sunrise
If you have a hard time waking up at 4am, MAKE THE EXCEPTION. Waking up at 4am gives ample time to make it to the Summit for parking and sunset. This has got to be one of the most incredibly breathtaking sights I have ever had to experience. The sun gently rises above the clouds while the park ranger chants “E “Ala e” a chant meaning rise with significance to the rising sun atop the House of the Sun (Hale a ka lā).
The top observation deck has an interior area for those wishing to stay out of the cold. But, itʻs still cold as hell up here.
Bring breakfast and some coffee to prep for the day because we are going hiking…
Hiking Sliding Sands Trail
After sunrise, I made the descent down Sliding sands adjacent to the visitors center which is a long difficult downward path to the floor of the crater.
Time: About 2 hours & change (one way). Return will take longer and heard it was difficult going up.
Haleakala Crater Trail
Hike time: 7 hours (approx)
Distance: 12 miles one way.
Despite my initial plans to go back up, I got curious and kept going to what would end up being the full Crater trail. This hike takes you in and through gorgeous volcanic terrain of the crater floor eventually through ʻahinahina fields to a greener terrain where the Holua cabin is. (One of the places I mentioned earlier to camp in the park. Takes nearly two hours to get to from the nearest parking lot)
Passing Holua cabin brought in some consistent misty rain that equated to torrential downpour over the course of an hour and a half. Steep cliffs peer through the fog and the next hour or so is spent walking up razor backs up the mountain. Before you know it, youʻre at a parking lot and need to hitchhike back to the summit to get your car.
Hitchhiking note: Mainland tourist are typically afraid of picking up hitchhikers, even on this one way up road. I waited 40 minutes before a local in a 4Runner picked me up with his girlfriend. 🙂
Recommendations
—-Hike down sliding sands instead of the other way will be much easier.
—-Bring plenty of water
—-Bring plenty of sunscreen. Direct hard sunlight with no shade (I got burnt)
—Hitchhike or plan your ride accordingly.
Enjoying it all with no plan
After reaching the top again, I felt I successfully enjoyed a taste of everything Haleakala had to offer. A second sunset opportunity was available to me, but instead I wanted to rest my sore and burnt body from the long hike earlier.
I cruised and made pit stops I missed on the way up. Such as: Kalahaku Overlook & Leleiwi Overlook
The Visitors Center
The one after the entrance doesnʻt have souvenirs to take home. Instead general information, history, and cultural education to take in about the park and significance to native Hawaiians. Information about the Nēnē goose & other native birds, animals, and plants to the park.
The visitors center near the summit delivers some of the most incredible panoramic views of the crater. Inside is where you will find souvenirs such as maps, t-shirts, magnets, and what I always look for…postcards.
I did all of this on a half day of my arrival and the next full day. My second and final night I spent at the campground resting my body from the tough hike before. But I did cruise up to the summit once more to take in the views before making the descent back to tropical Maui.
Often times people only have time for a day trip or even a half day trip. But I am biased to say that two days is surely enough to give you the full Haleakala experience!
